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tips... not cheats (cough).
#11
I don't agree with everything radencichesque and this is definitely one of those times.

pro tip: after tying it in both manners I believe there is no reason good enough to wrap a hackle over an underwing. and I shan't be doing it again. amen.


I know it is often repeated (but terribly incorrect) with regard to 'wrapping thread over previous wraps' but having a wound rachis to mount your main wing upon is mildly idiotic. 
and one simply cannot tie a fully dressed salmon fly in one constant forward wrapping motion. 
in fact, I've never understood that instruction considering what's wrapped at the shoulders/head.

cheers,
shawn
the difference between art and a hobby is you can plagiarise for a hobby.


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#12
here's one for that underwing that won't stop riding the hook top, perhaps crushing your rear veiling... I'm tying a 5/0 jock scott and this is very topical at the minute.

sometimes it's the plateau that we're tying upon; if it's flat there's every chance the underwing will ride the hook, and that's possible even if you arc the feather.
if you think about it, fastening an arc at its end will (and should) cause the other end to touch the tail, right? so this is not a feasible solution either... and turkey rarely plays well with others.

another way to ensure an angled underwing is to have your head conically shaped  > but this can cause problems with a future forward thread collapse, so we try to avoid this scenario if possible.
nowt worse than having your materials squirting out the back with your final fastening wraps... I've been there...
I also prefer a flat base for the eventual herl head.

what I've done with this predicament is put one or two wraps behind the underwing, thus lifting it up, and you can control the height with the thread tensioned towards the eye.
very little coercion can lift the wing quite a bit... but if I could make a suggestion, just lift it to a comfortable height.
there is also no need to change thread direction.

and hopefully now you've got some 'railings' to guide/place the main wing upon.
if performed correctly the lifting thread has also garrotted the underwing tie in area to the very top of the hook; if the underwing hugs the hook at its tie in point the main wing may do the same.
alternatively you could tie the main wing against a hugging underwing but seeing that turkey at the head of your fly will prove unsightly.

if you've counted your wraps (see: made them count) you can afford to lose two behind. no one will ever see the thread or know.
 
this demonstrated a case where one should stop and reverse. 
I'm sure we've all been guilty of thinking it's all going to be okay.
unfortunately, and if you're striving for a personal excellence, it very rarely is.

cheers,
sandpapergate
the difference between art and a hobby is you can plagiarise for a hobby.


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#13
(11-19-2018, 07:30 AM)mitch aka 2 fish Wrote: I tie off my 6/0 white just before I change to 6/0 black to do the final stages of the fly... so there's no reason the fly must stay in the vise.

and I thought I'd take this time to preen the cascading crests as described in the first post.



it also allows me to prep the next materials.
fortunately with this fly it's only horns and herl head... before the dreaded rachis razoring, of course.


What is rachis razoring?



now I can complete it tomorrow and have it ready for photos. 
women will swoon and men will throw themselves from the fourteenth floor.


remember, lads... these are cheats secrets.

cheers,
shhhhhawn

My apologies...still learning how to navigate the site
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#14
tip: don't buy wt turkey from china.

cheers,
shawn
the difference between art and a hobby is you can plagiarise for a hobby.


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#15
No, don't do that
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